Christmas in Vienna

December 2006

From imperial palaces to world famous cafes, Vienna has plenty to keep visitors entertained all year round. But it is during the festive season that the Austrian capital really comes into its own.

Christmas Markets

In December the Christmas markets (Christkindlmarkt), a tradition that goes back to the early 17th century, become the focus of all activity in Vienna. The biggest of them all takes place in front of the magnificent Rathaus (City Hall) (website: www.christkindlmarkt.at), which forms a majestic backdrop to what has to be one of the prettiest Christmas markets in Europe.

Over 140 stalls, selling such perennial favourites as candyfloss, roasted chestnuts, wursts (sausages), pickles jars and the ubiquitous gingerbreads, as well as baubles, candles and all manner of wooden and soft toys, attract a whopping 3 million visitors every year. The smell of spices and glühwein (mulled wine) permeates the air, and the multicoloured lights hanging in the trees above the square really do turn the whole area into a magical Christmas wonderland.

Another good place for visitors and locals to mingle around upturned barrels and sip the festive brew is Spittelberg, a maze of narrow cobbled streets between Burggasse and Siebensterngasse, and one of Vienna's most funky and arty neighbourhoods.
Spittelberg market is smaller and less touristy but just as atmospheric as the one at the Rathaus, with a more ethnic flavour. Also worth checking out is the market outside the imposing Karlskirche, as well as the one in the courtyard of Schloss Schönbrunn (Schönbrunn Palace).

Imperial Vienna

Vienna was of course famous for being the home of the Hapsburg dynasty, the ruling House of Austria, and more particularly that of Elisabeth Amalia Eugenia, better known as Empress Sisi (incidentally born on Christmas Eve 1837), and immortalised on the silver screen by a young Romy Schneider.

The city has retained much of its imperial grandeur, from the imposing complex of the Hofburg (website: www.hofburg-wien.at), the emperor's winter residence, to a number of smaller private palaces, most of which will be open to visitors over the festive season. So step back in time... Maybe even treat yourself to a ride in a wonderfully old-fashioned horse-drawn caleche?

Galleries Galore

Or indulge in a visual feast in one of Vienna's many fascinating museums and art galleries. There are some fabulous paintings by Klimt and Schiele (two of Austria's most famous artists) in the permanent collection of both the Belvedere (home of the famous Kiss) (website: www.belvedere.at) and the Leopold Museum (in the new MuseumQuartier district) (website: www.leopoldmuseum.org), while the Albertina (website: www.albertina.at), another of the city's top galleries, currently features an exhibition of Picasso's late works, with almost 200 pieces including paintings, drawings, prints and sculptures (on until 7 January 2007).

A Night at the Opera

As befits a city that was once home to both Mozart and Strauss, and still attracts the biggest talents in the music world, Vienna boasts a plethora of music venues, from big theatres to smaller concert halls. The Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera) (website: www.wiener-staatsoper.at) is the grandest of them all, and a must see for all opera lovers.

This season it is possible to catch a performance of Der Rosenkavalier or Arabella (both by Richard Strauss), or visitors with youngsters in tow can opt for Mozart's Bastien und Bastienne, a children's special. Round the corner the Vienna Boys Choir (website: www.wsk.at) will be celebrating mass in the intimate setting of the Hofburgkapelle (24 and 25 December at 0900, booking essential). Glam up for the occasion, as the Viennese love dressing up!

Having a Ball

The New Year's celebrations kick off in true regal style at the Hofburg Palace with the Imperial Ball (Kaiserball) (website: www.hofburg.com/e/va/index.php), the first of the season, which lasts until mid February. This is one of the main events on the social calendar, where the crème de la crème of Viennese society, after a sumptuous gala dinner, take to the dancefloor and whirl and waltz the night away. A very original, but effective, way to burn off excess calories.

Happy New Year!

On New Year's Eve every year Vienna's city centre is transformed into one big street party, with a dozen stages providing free entertainment from early in the afternoon until the small hours. There will be something for all tastes, from (yet more) waltzes and operetta to rock music and folk, culminating in the Pummerin (Austria's biggest bell) in St Stephen's Cathedral ringing in the new year, followed by the Blue Danube Waltz.

Another Viennese tradition, the popular hangover breakfast on the Rathausplatz, is accompanied by live transmission of the New Year's Day Concert given by the Vienna Philharmonic on a giant screen outside City Hall. So wrap up warm, and celebrate the arrival of 2007 in style.

Travel News

Responsible Travel

With the travel industry belatedly catching up with customer demands for ethical tourism, many groundbreaking companies and organisations are developing truly innovative solutions to meet this ever-growing market.

Environment

One of the biggest factors to consider when planning a responsible holiday is the effect the trip has on the environment. With air travel now recognised as one of the fastest growing causes of global warming, many tourists are opting to holiday at home or choosing a less-damaging means of transport altogether.

Rail travel is once again growing in popularity with specialist websites such as The Man in Seat Sixty-One (website: www.seat61.com) providing plenty of ideas and inspiration for would-be rail travellers. And it's not just legendary rail journeys such as the Trans-Siberian Express and The Ghan in Australia that travellers have to choose from, as more and more rail networks are now reviving old lines or creating new ones capitalising on the renewed interest in rail travel.

One line that's causing quite a stir amongst international globetrotters is the newly opened service to Tibet which began operating in July this year. Now passengers can travel to Tibet on a range of modern air-conditioned trains with sleeper and restaurant services from Beijing and Xian in China. (However, some environmental groups have raised concerns that the influx of visitors that is now expected could undermine traditional Tibetan culture and values.)

And flights no longer have to cost the Earth either; air travellers can now offset their CO2 emissions by paying money to one of a number of companies such as Climate Care (website: www.climatecare.org) which invests the money in projects all over the world ranging from reforestation work in Uganda to energy efficiency programmes on the Marshall Islands.

Where to Stay

The choice of accommodation is also vitally important. All too often profits from tourism rarely reach the local communities with building contracts for new hotels, food supplies and even hotel staff often being sourced from outside the local community. But things are beginning to change and many establishments now have strict ethical, eco-friendly policies in place where locals manage the property and take a share of the profits.

One such place is the fabulous Kasbah du Toukbal (website: www.kasbahdutoubkal.com) in the mountain town of Imlil in Morocco. The restored kasbah employs local staff and tradesmen to ensure wages are distributed locally, sources fresh local produce for its kitchens which minimises food miles and further boosts the local economy, recycles as much waste as possible and discourages unnecessary use of electricity by guests. It also helped to found the Village Association which has enabled the local villagers to set up group initiatives such as providing an ambulance and driver for the region.

Another such place is Bhakti Kutir (website: www.bhaktikutir.com) in Goa which is owned and run by a Goan-German couple. Built from natural resources on the terraces of a coconut grove overlooking the sea, the simple cabanas are each individually designed and all have outdoor bucket showers and eco-friendly composting toilets. The lodge employs local staff and the kitchen serves wonderful organic produce. Visitors can learn more about traditional Indian healing and relaxation at the site's ayurvedic treatment rooms and yoga centre.

And it's not just small, independent operators that are making a difference. Many of the big hotel chains now use energy efficient light bulbs and appliances, have bed linen made from organic cotton and offer guests the choice of whether or not to have their towels washed each day in a bid to reduce pollution and save energy.

Fairmont Hotels and Resorts (website: www.fairmont.com) has won a whole host of awards for its innovative Fairmount Green Partnership including the Tourism for Tomorrow (website: www.tourismfortomorrow.com) Global Tourism Business Award in 2006. Initiatives range from the increased use of renewable energy sources to a conservation programme set up to protect the threatened St Lawrence Estuary beluga population in Eastern Canada.

Choosing a Company

A growing number of companies specialise in providing responsible holidays which ensure that staff are treated and paid fairly, that local communities benefit financially from the trickle down effects of the tourism industry and that the natural environment is protected.

Some operators are going one step further by offering its customers the opportunity to participate in Community Based Tourism (CBT) projects. Rather than turning up for an hour on an organised tour to a fictional 'tribal village' created just for tourists, the emerging trend towards CBT initiatives offer visitors the chance to stay in a real community and share experiences in a two-way cultural exchange between guests and the host community.

The spectacular Chalalan Ecolodge in the Bolivian Amazon is one such example of a successful CBT project. Created in 1995 as a joint venture between the rainforest community of San José de Uchupiamonas and Conservation International (CI) (website: www.conservation.org), the lodge specialises in nature and cultural tourism which provides jobs for local people - a viable alternative to working in the logging industry. After a rigorous training programme, CI handed over full ownership of the lodge to the local managers and staff in 2001 who continue to invite guests to stay at the lodge to learn more about their customs and way of life.

What You Can Do

• Learn a smattering of phrases in the local language: this can go a long way to breaking down cultural barriers and providing a more enriching and rewarding travel experience.

• Respect local beliefs and cultural values: a tiny thong bikini might be de rigeur on Rio's Copacabana Beach, but deeply offensive somewhere else.

• Barter fairly in local markets: a few cents or rupees saved by you can be the difference between the vendor's family eating or going hungry that night.

• Be aware of local environmental issues. A beautiful safari lodge may have been built on land seized from local tribesmen who have been forced off the land. A hotel with a lovely pool and permanent access to hot showers and Jacuzzis may be at the expense of local villagers whose water access may be severely restricted.

• Research your chosen hotel or operator: a few probing questions should sort out true ethical companies from those merely paying lip service to this growing trend.

A Green Future

From independent operators to multinational travel companies, the trickle in the trend towards supplying responsible travel options has now become a flood. Whilst there is still a lot more to be done, the travel industry as a whole is beginning to face up to its responsibilities and most companies worth your custom now have strict ethical policies in place.

And the great news for travellers is that from Amsterdam to Zanzibar, there is no shortage of ethical options to choose from. So wherever you travel in the world, if a company isn't acting responsibly, vote with your feet and keep searching until you find one that is.

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